Watzmann 2010

We decided to shift the expedition 1 day earlier because of Andrej's beamtime and the plan was to sleep Friday afternoon and to drive to Berchtesgaden at night. But due to problems with the beam Andrej had to stay at FRS Messhütte up to midnight. Right after the shift he and Brano drove whole night to Ramsau. They arrived at 6:00 morning and started climbing immediately. As planned for 2 weeks we wanted to climb up the north face and the same way down. But somehow we lost the way and after 4 hours of walking in a deep snow we did not reach the north face of Watzmann, but west face.

Exhausted, we had just 2 options at altitude approx 1800m. To move back towards the north face, extra 2 hours through snow, or to climb the west face. We decided to climb the west face, but after couple of locals decided not to continue because they were scared, Andrej was not that comfortable with the idea anymore. But thanks to Brano they continued and the plan was clear: we have to reach the north-west ridge as fast as possible. So another 3 hours we were climbing towards the summit(#6). During the climbing we heard at least 4 avalanches and rockfalls from the neighboring Hochkalter. After 2 hours we lost each other and were for 1 hours climbing separately. As instructions were clear like snow Andrej was climbing direction ridge and summit. Brano climbed more to the north face and reached east-north ridge (the planned route) and wanted to climb down, but was not able to see or hear Andrej and had to wait. We agreed that at 15:00 no matter what we will turn back, but Andrej alone had no watches and had no idea about the time. Meanwhile Andrej following the instruction to climb towards the summit appeared approx 50-100m below the first summit(#6). From this point he spotted Brano resting some 200m below and thought Brano is going down and Andrej without any power was also not willing to continue last 50-100m. But Brano thought that Andrej keeps going and found some extra energy to climb up to him.

As he reached Andrej it was exactly 15:00 and we could start the way down via north face as planned. Brano assured Andrej that the way via north face is oder of magnitude easier that west face route so Andrej was happy and already dreaming how he enters the car. But of course it was bullshit and we were only 2 people who did north face descent at least that weekend. It took another 5-6 hours to climb down. On the way down we made a theater for 3 men drinking at watzmann haus under the north face as they did not believe who are those stupid idiots climbing down north face. They were watching us whole 2 hours. Later we met also dahu type animal(rupicapra) but it ran away before Andrej was able to take picture and check if it is dahu or normal chamois. Dehydrated and exhausted we finally reached the cat around 21:00 and Andrej drove to Darmstadt because he had beamtime at 8:00 morning and as he is a workoholic he managed, but he was avoiding stairs as much as possible.